Seriously Scary - GDV

First off, GDV stands for gastric dilation and volvulus. This is a serious, life-threatening condition that can occur in any dog breed, but most commonly in deep-chested dog breeds like Great Danes, Labradors, Weimaraners, Standard Poodles and Saint Bernards. The direct cause of GDV is not known but there are many factors that contribute to the development of the condition. These factors include rapidly consuming food, exercise immediately before or after eating, stressful conditions, increased age or inherent motility disorders of the stomach. There is a gas accumulation in the stomach that then leads to distention and a rotation or twist of the entire stomach.

So, how do you recognize this condition? The most common signs are abdominal distension, vomiting or retching (unproductive vomiting), restlessness or signs of pain. Occasionally, the dog may even collapse. These signs usually progress as the condition worsens. This condition can become very serious very quickly. As the stomach twists, the blood supply is cut off. This is a life-threatening situation that can lead to necrosis of the stomach. If your pet is showing any of these signs, they should already be in the car and on the way to a vet!

Diagnosing GDV is usually fairly straightforward. Abdominal radiographs show a dilated stomach that is full of gas and some food materials. Often times, a stomach tube cannot be passed due to the rotated stomach. Treatment of a GDV is multi-faceted. IV fluids must be administered for cardiovascular support. The patient is typically placed under anesthesia and decompression of the stomach is attempted. Usually, surgery is required to reposition the stomach. The stomach is then sutured to the abdominal wall in a procedure called a gastropexy. This prevents the stomach from twisting again in the future, as this condition often repeats itself. If the condition is severe enough, sometimes the stomach or the spleen may need to be resected due to necrosis. These conditions unfortunately increase the mortality rate of this condition. Recovery from the condition takes several days, as food is slowly re-introduced post-operatively.

This radiograph of a canine abdomen shows a severely distended stomach full of gas. 

There are many things you can do to try to prevent this condition from occurring in your pet. Changes to feeding habits can decrease the incidence rate. Feed multiple, smaller meals throughout the day and have a significant time gap in between feeding and exercise. Some dogs, like my mother’s dog Milly, often inhale their food within seconds. Placing a rock or large ball in the bowl to slow down eating is often helpful. None of these methods, however, are 100% effective. A prophylactic gastropexy may prevent this condition from occurring in your pet. This procedure tacks the stomach to the abdominal wall to prevent twisting from occurring. This procedure does involve an abdominal laparotomy; it is often done when spaying female dogs that are pre-disposed to this condition.

Hopefully, this gives you a bit of insight on a serious and life-threatening condition many dogs face. Most famously, Marley from the film “Marley and Me” suffered from a GDV at some point in the film. 

Marley from the classic canine film "Marley and Me". Just had to throw a cute lab puppy picture in for a smile. 

2013: Your Pet Can Have Resolutions Too!

This year, why not make a 2013 resolution for your pet?

Pet obesity is a huge problem with companion animals, both dogs and cats. It has been reported that over 50% of household dogs and cats are considered either overweight or obese. Another study has shown that around 25% of America’s pets are considered obese. This is a serious problem with serious health implications for your pets.

So, how do you tell if your pet is overweight, or even obese? Weight is not a helpful number in dogs and cats, as there are so many breed variations. The body condition system (BCS) is an accurate way to assess dogs and cats based on body fat percentages. Below are the ideal findings on a dog or cat as well as the findings on a pet that is overweight.

• Ideal Dog/Cat: Cannot see ribs, but you can easily feel them. Pet has a waist behind rib cage when viewed from above. Viewed from side, the stomach tucks behind the rib cage.

• Overweight Dog/Cat: Cannot feel ribs, or can feel them only with significant pressure. Fat deposits at base of tail. Belly is rounded when viewed from the side.

Obesity affects various systems in the dog and cat, including the musculoskeletal system, respiratory system, endocrine system and liver function. Numerous studies have been conducted on the relationship between body condition scores (BCS) and osteoarthritis. Just as in humans, the less stress (from excess weight) placed on joints over time will limit the development of arthritis in your pets. Diabetes is another disease humans may be familiar with. This disease is heavily influenced by a pet’s BCS. In cats especially, a healthy diet and appropriate weight can lead to discontinuing insulin therapy in some cases! Overall, dogs and cats with a normal BCS are likely to be healthier longer and live extended lives.

There are several keys to weight loss in your pet. As in humans, caloric restriction combined with exercise is the key to success. Dogs should go on regular, long walks to help with weight loss. Exercising cats can be more of a challenge. Laser lights on the wall or pulling a toy across a room can get most cats to play. This should be done for a 15 to 30 minute time period daily to see weight loss results. Equally important to weight loss is a diet. There are a lot of products out there that claim to be “weight management” foods. It is very important to read the label and know how many calories are in a serving. Some excellent weight loss diets can be found at most pet stores. Sometimes, however, a more severe calorie cut is needed. Companies like Royal Canin, Hill’s and Purina have developed prescription veterinary diets to make weight loss manageable. If you have any questions about these diets, please do not hesitate to ask us! Finally, never forget the power of treats when helping your pet lose weight. Most commercial dog and cat treats are full of unnecessary calories for your pet. Consider healthy alternatives for treats outside the typical treats. Green beans or other vegetables are low calorie, healthy treats. Also, Trader Joe's has a treat called "Charlee Bears" that are 3 calories each! There are many lower calorie options for rewarding your pet. 

Have a look at these BCS charts for dogs and cats. How does your pet score? If your pet is up in the 7 to 9 range, please give us a call or shoot us an email at techs.csah@gmail.com to discuss a weight loss plan for your pet! And always, we encourage you to swing by the office whenever you are out around town with your pet to check their weight and monitor your progress.

Need more information? Purina has a Project Pet Slimdown to help get your pet on track to a healthy weight in 2013.

Pet Survival Guide: Winter and the Holidays

Bonny Rose

The holidays can be a stressful time for your pet, just as it can be for you! Sure, they don’t have to struggle with mall traffic just to buy gifts for everyone on their list or cook for twenty out of town guests, but there are a lot of changes they have to adjust to in the month of December.

First off, let’s deal with the weather. Usually, in a normal winter, it’s COLD! (Now, a Tennessee winter is a different story). The weather changes affect your dogs and cats just as much as it affects you. As a guideline, if you pet stays outside usually they will be fine with proper shelter (a covered doghouse or similar structure) down to around 20° F. However, puppies, kittens, smaller dogs and geriatric pets usually should not be left outside below 40° F. Some pets may need a sweater if their hair coat is especially thin or short. The cold also makes arthritis act up in geriatric pets, so remember to have their arthritis medications on hand and limit their time outside. Frostbite can occur in extremely low temperatures, especially on the ears, paws and tail. If theses spots appear hardened, cold to the touch or black, please contact your veterinarian immediately. Remember to keep fresh water out for your dog and change it often to prevent freezing. Finally, if you use ethylene glycol anti-freeze in your vehicle, please keep it safe and away from your pet’s reach as it is highly toxin to both dogs and cats.

Now, for the holiday hazards your pet may encounter.

• Holiday Foods: Try to prevent your pet from getting any fatty or spicy foods, bread dough, fresh herbs, alcoholic beverages and sweets of any kind (especially chocolate ones). Cooked poultry bones can be a serious hazard to pets as they can splinter and cause gastrointestinal perforation.

• Decorations: Several holiday plants are toxic to pets, especially holly, mistletoe, poinsettias and amaryllis. Snow globes can contain anti-freeze, so keep them in a safe place to prevent them from breaking. Christmas trees should be secured to prevent falling and keep all breakable ornaments away from the bottom of the tree. Tinsel can also be a danger to both dogs and cats if ingested. Keep your pet away from the tree if possible, as ingesting the tree water or pine needles can cause stomach and intestinal upset. Also, keep candles and electrical wires out of your pet’s reach whenever possible.  

Lots of changes can happen over the holidays that may confuse or stress your pet. If you know when guests are coming, it is a good idea to exercise your dog before they arrive. This may help your pup relax and they may be ready for a nap by the time the guests show up. Try to prevent your pet from greeting guests at the door, as they may become stressed or react unexpectedly. If you think your pet needs a break or seems stressed, you can place them in their crate or an empty room to help them relax.

Finally, just like people, pets love presents! Don’t forget to pick up a new toy or some special treats for your pet to keep them entertained over the holidays.

Hope the holiday season treats everyone well and don’t forget to bundle up and keep warm! Happy Holidays from all of us at CSAH!

Breaking Down the Feline Annual Exam

This will be a follow-up post to our post from yesterday on the canine annual exam. A lot of the information will be similar, but the vaccines are (naturally) very different for cats. As with dogs, it is highly recommended to bring your cat in for an annual visit. There are a few things excluded from cat annuals that are standard for dogs. Here is a breakdown of our feline yearlys:

Feline annual examination:

1. FVRCP
2. FeLV Vaccine
3. Rabies Vaccine
4. Nail Trim (if desired)
5. Annual Bloodwork
6. Full Physical Examination

1. FVRCP: a combination booster with a lot of letters representing different diseases – we will break down the acronym below:

• FVR: stands for Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis and calicivirus – these two viruses cause upper respiratory tract infections in cats that are easily transmitted from cat to cat. Kittens are more often affected, but unprotected cats can easily be infected. Once infected, many cats become a carrier of these viruses for life.

• C: stands for Chlamydophilia– this is a bacterial infection that causes respiratory disease in cats. It is highly contagious, especially in kittens. It can cause infection in the eyes and the lungs if it is left untreated.

• P: stands for panleukopenia – this is the feline distemper virus. This is a highly infectious disease that can survive in the environment for up to a year! Treatment of this disease is very difficult and the prognosis, once infected, is typically poor.

2. FeLV Vaccine – a vaccination agaisnt Feline Leukemia. This disease is the leading cause of death in cats in North America and can cause very serious health problems in cats. Cats can develop cancerous leukemia and secondary infections throughout the body. Cats can be carriers of this disease for months or years before showing clinical signs.

3. Rabies Vaccine – required by law. We usually start giving a 3 year vaccine to cats after they have had two one year vaccines in a row. We will give each cat a current rabies tag at every annual visit. See our previous blog post for more information on rabies.

4. Nail Trim – a complimentary pedicure for any cat that wants one. This is done much less often than in dogs, but is actually easier to do on a well-mannered cat. 

5. Annual Bloodwork – this is optional, but highly encouraged as your cat begins to age. We have two options available, depending on your cat’s current health status and age:

• Junior Profile: a mini-chemistry panel checking liver and kidney values, blood glucose, thyroid (T4) levels, a complete blood count looking at red blood cells, white blood cells and platelets, and a heartworm antigen test. We recommend this bloodwork for cats once they turn 3-4 years old and annually after that until your pet reaches their “senior years.”

• Senior Profile: a full chemistry panel with a more in depth look at liver and kidney function, electrolytes, blood glucose, thyroid (T4) levels, a complete blood count looking at red blood cells, white blood cells and platelets, a urinalysis and a heartworm antigen test. We recommend this bloodwork for cats once they reach 7-8 years old. This is also a good panel for any cat that has been sick or having urinary issues. For more information on senior pet care, click here.

6. Full Physical Examination - there is nothing more valuable to a veterinarian than a physical examination. Looking at every aspect of your pet every year helps to keep track of your pet as they age. We can make sure any lumps or bumps are not changing significantly and check for early signs disease, especially heart disease and dental disease in aging kitties. There have been several cases where a cat comes in for annual vaccines, and a very significant disease has been found and treated just from a good physical examination. 

Take your kitties to the vet every year - just like Gus!

Hopefully this has been a good break down of our typical feline yearly examination. We would love to see more cats coming in for annual for vaccines in 2013. We see many dogs annually for vaccines, but cats do not come in nearly as often, and it is just as important! Please post a comment if you have any questions. Call us today at 615-377-4959 to schedule your pet’s annual exam!

Breaking Down the Canine Annual Visit

Almost all veterinarians recommend an annual visit for your canine companions. In this blog post, we will break down our standard “yearly exam” for dogs with what vaccines are given and all the other items involved. One thing to keep in mind about vaccines is that they work by stimulating the immune system agaisnt certain antibodies or antigens. If a pet has a disease, such as a urinary tract infection or skin allergies, it is not a good idea to give vaccines at the same time, as that puts too much stress on the pet’s immune system. Let’s start off with a breakdown of our canine yearlys:

Canine annual examination:

1. DHLPP-CV
2. Rabies Vaccine
3. Bordatella vaccine (optional)
4. Fecal flotation
5. Nail Trim
6. Heartworm test +/- annual bloodwork
7. Full Physical Examination

1. DHLPP-CV: a combination booster with a lot of letters representing different diseases – we will break down the acronym below:

• D: stands for distemper virus – a very contagious and often fatal viral disease in dogs. It is usually spread from nasal or ocular discharge in injected dogs. This disease can affect many different organ systems, including the digestive system, respiratory system or the nervous system.

• H: stands for Infectious Canine Hepatitis – this disease is caused by adenovirus (some vaccines can be called DA2PP) and can be transmitted by contact with infected dogs through the urine, feces or saliva. This virus can cause liver failure, respiratory disease or eye damage. 

• L: stands for Leptospirosis – this is a bacterial disease that dogs can get when exposed to the organism in water. It can cause serious liver and kidney disease if contracted.

• P: stands for parvovirus. This is an extremely contagious and serious viral disease that can be fatal. It attacks the gastrointestinal system, especially in young puppies. It is typically spread through fecal exposure and is highly resistant to most cleaning agents.

• P: stands for parainfluenza – this is a respiratory viral disease that can cause coughing, especially when many dogs are found in the same place (boarding, grooming, etc.)

• CV: stands for Coronavirus – a less common viral disease in dogs that affects the intestines.

2. Rabies Vaccine – required by law. We usually start giving a 3 year vaccine to dogs after they have had two one year vaccines in a row. We will give each dog a current rabies tag at every annual visit. See our previous blog post for more information on rabies.

3. Bordetella Vaccine – this oral vaccine is optional for dogs. It prevents Bordetella bronchiseptica, a bacterial infection known to cause “kennel cough”. This vaccine is recommended for dogs that get groomed regularly, attend training sessions with other dogs, are being boarded or go to the dog park often.

4. Fecal Flotation – a sample is evaluated for presence of worm eggs. Most dogs on regular heartworm prevention do not have intestinal worms, but there is increasing resistance with many of these worms. The most commonly found worms in canine feces include whipworms, hookworms and roundworms. Some facilities require a fecal done annually before boarding.

5. Nail Trim – a complimentary pedicure for all dogs seen at their annual exam. Done mostly to save your hardwood furniture and upholstery. We have yet to meet a dog that enjoys a nail trim.

6. Heartworm Test +/- Annual Bloodwork – we require a negative heartworm test annually to renew any heartworm medication prescriptions. This is a blood test, typically sent to an outside lab that also tests for exposure to a few tick borne diseases. We also offer two different types of annual bloodwork that include a heartworm test.

• Junior Profile: a mini-chemistry panel checking liver and kidney values, blood glucose, thyroid (T4) levels, a complete blood count looking at red blood cells, white blood cells and platelets, and of course, a heartworm test. We recommend this bloodwork for dogs once they turn 3-4 years old and annually after that until your pet reaches their “senior years.”

• Senior Profile: a full chemistry panel with a more in depth look at liver and kidney function, electrolytes, blood glucose, thyroid (T4) levels, a complete blood count looking at red blood cells, white blood cells and platelets, a urinalysis and a heartworm test. We recommend this bloodwork for dogs once they reach 7-8 years old. This is also a good panel for any dog that has been sick or having urinary issues. If you would like more information on senior pet care, click here. 

7. Full Physical Examination - there is nothing more valuable to a veterinarian than a physical examination. Looking at every aspect of your pet every year helps to keep track of your pet as they age. We can make sure any lumps or bumps are not changing significantly and check for early signs of arthritis or other disease. There have been many cases where a dog comes in for annual vaccines, and a very significant disease has been found and treated just from a good physical examination. 

Milly stay healthy because she gets her exam and vaccines every year!

Hopefully this has been a good break down of our typical canine yearly examination. Please post a comment if you have any questions. Call us today at 615-377-4959 to schedule your pet’s annual exam! 

Halloween Hazards - Household Toxins

With Halloween around the corner, and everyone stocking up on their chocolate candy for trick-or-treaters, a blog post about common household toxins for pets seems in order. This will not be all inclusive, but hopefully I can cover the major toxic items inside and outside the home.

Let’s start with foods. The most well known is of course, CHOCOLATE. With chocolate, the dark, baking chocolate is the most toxic. Also, white chocolate is in fact not toxic at all to your pup (but please do not give it to your dog). Other common food items that are toxic include avocado, onions and garlic, grapes and raisins, any beverages with caffeine or alcohol, macadamia nuts and any chewing gum containing xylitol.

Another major source of toxins for pets is household plants. This list is very long and new plants are constantly added to it. The ones that immediately pop into my head are LILIES (all kinds – especially in your feline friends), oleander, foxgloves, daffodils, philodendrons and sago palms (a huge problem in Louisiana and Florida). Other plants on the list include: English ivy, poision ivy and poison oak, rhododendron, poinsettias and holly (Christmas!), yews, dumb cane, elephant ears, hibiscus and aloe vera.

Outside you can find other toxins as well. Garden mulch and mushrooms can be toxic to dogs and cats. Also, many fertilizers, herbicides and insecticides, especially organophosphates, are not safe for pets. Please keep your pets away from these products when they must be used. The worst toxin I can think of is ANTI-FREEZE. This always becomes a problem with cooler weather coming. This chemical is very potent and just the smallest drop can cause a severe problem for cats and small dogs. Please be extremely careful with the product. It is naturally sweet tasting, so pets can often be attracted to the smell. Always clean up anti-freeze spills when they occur.

Another major toxin is RAT POISON. This can cause internal bleeding if ingested. These rodenticide and other baits in the home can cause serious problems if your pet happens to get into them. Also, household cleaners, especially bleach, should be kept in a safe place out of your pet’s reach.

The most common toxin exposure we see at CSAH is human medications given to pets inappropriately. We recommend calling us before giving your pet ANY household medication. If you don’t know already, TYLENOL is extremely toxic, especially to cats. Also, please do not give your pet ibuprofen (Motrin) as overdoses are very common. Decongestant medications containing pseudoephedrine can cause hyper-excitability and liver damage. Another common toxin we see is topical flea and tick medication labeled only for dogs being used on cats. If this happens, the first thing you should do is bathe the cat with dawn (or another gentle soap) to get the product off the fur.

Signs of toxin exposure can be very variable. The most common signs include vomiting (GI toxins), lethargy and weakness, or seizures (CNS toxins). You may also see labored or shallow breathing, drooling, stumbling, staggering or tremors. Some toxins cause increased heart rate, hyperactivity, increased thirst and dilated pupils.

If you think your pet has ingested a toxin, please give us or any emergency center a call immediately. If you need to bring your pet into the hospital, always remember to bring the packaging that the toxin came in. This can provide very valuable information when handling toxin exposure cases.

Hopefully this blog post opened your eyes to some of the pet toxins found around your home and in the yard. Please comment if you have any questions about this information.

ASPCA Toxin Hotline: (888) 426-4435

Above, a picture of George, one of our regulars in his Halloween attire. 

- H

Fleas, fleas and more fleas!

This week, I will be covering a topic that has plagued so many of our clients (and staff) this summer. Fleas. Those little pesky bugs that suck your pet's blood, cause intense itching, skin lesions, and worst of all, invade your home. 

The flea most often seen on your dogs and cats is actually the cat flea, Ctenocephalides felis. These fleas lay eggs on the fur of their host (your pet), and the eggs then fall onto bedding or carpet for hatching. Hatching leads to larvae which leads to cocooning pupa which, after several weeks, finally produces an adult flea. Adult fleas feed on their host almost immediately. They consume blood and excrete it in a blackish red pellets onto their host to create "flea dirt." Flea dirt looks a lot like pepper flakes on your pet's skin. These fleas cannot survive for more than a few days in temperatures less than 37 degrees F. To survive the winter, these fleas find a host to keep warm. These hosts can be your pet, if you are not treating topically. 

In some pets, flea allergy dermatitis (FAD) may develop secondary to flea infestations. FAD is a hypersensitivity to flea salvia that may cause dermatitis in dogs and cats. In cats, this typically presents as miliary dermatitis with small crusted spots on the neck, back and face. In dogs, there is intense itching, usually at the tail base but can occur all over the body. Dogs can lose hair and develop lesions in the skin from the intense itching. Occasionally, secondary bacterial or fungal infections may occur on the skin from the self-trauma. 

Fleas can cause more problems than just itchy skin. In young animals, too many fleas can lead to iron deficiency anemia from so much blood loss. Also, fleas are carriers of several different intestinal worms. The most common is the tapeworm. When grooming, your pet may ingest a flea which may then lead to a tapeworm infection as well. 

The goal of flea treatment is three-fold: 1. eliminate fleas on your pet(s), 2. eliminate fleas in your pet's environment and 3. prevent subsequent re-infestation. 

Eliminating fleas on your pet. There are so many products out on the market right now for flea control. Here is what we typically recommend for clients. Remember, please make sure you are purchasing the right product for your pet. Check the weight and species approved on all products before using them. 

1. Topical monthly flea and tick prevention - products such as Parastar Plus, Frontline Plus, K9 Advantix for dogs or EasySpot and Frontline for cats - these products may take up to 24 hours to start killing fleas
2. Oral monthly flea prevention - Comfortis or Trifexis (heartworm prevention as well)
3. Oral immedatiate treatment - CapStar, which kills fleas on the pet for 24 hours

To treat the environment, there are a few different things to do, depending on the degree of infestation. You may start by washing all the bedding your pet contacts and vacuuming the carpets (tip: put a flea collar in the vacuum bag). There are sprays out there to kill fleas in their various stages you can use as well. Usually, however, you will have to get a flea bomb to fully treat your home. There are also treatments that can be used on the yard. Concentrate these on places your pet goes, such as the doghouse, garage or special areas your pet likes to lounge. 

Preventing re-infestation is usually done by using a monthly prevention we mentioned earlier. Unfortunately, fleas can develop resistance to some of these products. If you notice a product stops working for your pet, wait a few weeks after application and try a different one. These products are ideally used year round. If you want to stop using topical products during the winter, just remember to use them a month after the first freeze and then re-start a month before the last freeze.

Hopefully this will help pet owners to deal with the terrible flea season we have seen in Tennessee this year. Remember, you are not alone if you are experiencing a flea infestation. If you have more questions, please let us know or call the office at 615.377.4959. Thanks!

- H