Pet Survival Guide: Winter and the Holidays

Bonny Rose

The holidays can be a stressful time for your pet, just as it can be for you! Sure, they don’t have to struggle with mall traffic just to buy gifts for everyone on their list or cook for twenty out of town guests, but there are a lot of changes they have to adjust to in the month of December.

First off, let’s deal with the weather. Usually, in a normal winter, it’s COLD! (Now, a Tennessee winter is a different story). The weather changes affect your dogs and cats just as much as it affects you. As a guideline, if you pet stays outside usually they will be fine with proper shelter (a covered doghouse or similar structure) down to around 20° F. However, puppies, kittens, smaller dogs and geriatric pets usually should not be left outside below 40° F. Some pets may need a sweater if their hair coat is especially thin or short. The cold also makes arthritis act up in geriatric pets, so remember to have their arthritis medications on hand and limit their time outside. Frostbite can occur in extremely low temperatures, especially on the ears, paws and tail. If theses spots appear hardened, cold to the touch or black, please contact your veterinarian immediately. Remember to keep fresh water out for your dog and change it often to prevent freezing. Finally, if you use ethylene glycol anti-freeze in your vehicle, please keep it safe and away from your pet’s reach as it is highly toxin to both dogs and cats.

Now, for the holiday hazards your pet may encounter.

• Holiday Foods: Try to prevent your pet from getting any fatty or spicy foods, bread dough, fresh herbs, alcoholic beverages and sweets of any kind (especially chocolate ones). Cooked poultry bones can be a serious hazard to pets as they can splinter and cause gastrointestinal perforation.

• Decorations: Several holiday plants are toxic to pets, especially holly, mistletoe, poinsettias and amaryllis. Snow globes can contain anti-freeze, so keep them in a safe place to prevent them from breaking. Christmas trees should be secured to prevent falling and keep all breakable ornaments away from the bottom of the tree. Tinsel can also be a danger to both dogs and cats if ingested. Keep your pet away from the tree if possible, as ingesting the tree water or pine needles can cause stomach and intestinal upset. Also, keep candles and electrical wires out of your pet’s reach whenever possible.  

Lots of changes can happen over the holidays that may confuse or stress your pet. If you know when guests are coming, it is a good idea to exercise your dog before they arrive. This may help your pup relax and they may be ready for a nap by the time the guests show up. Try to prevent your pet from greeting guests at the door, as they may become stressed or react unexpectedly. If you think your pet needs a break or seems stressed, you can place them in their crate or an empty room to help them relax.

Finally, just like people, pets love presents! Don’t forget to pick up a new toy or some special treats for your pet to keep them entertained over the holidays.

Hope the holiday season treats everyone well and don’t forget to bundle up and keep warm! Happy Holidays from all of us at CSAH!

Breaking Down the Feline Annual Exam

This will be a follow-up post to our post from yesterday on the canine annual exam. A lot of the information will be similar, but the vaccines are (naturally) very different for cats. As with dogs, it is highly recommended to bring your cat in for an annual visit. There are a few things excluded from cat annuals that are standard for dogs. Here is a breakdown of our feline yearlys:

Feline annual examination:

1. FVRCP
2. FeLV Vaccine
3. Rabies Vaccine
4. Nail Trim (if desired)
5. Annual Bloodwork
6. Full Physical Examination

1. FVRCP: a combination booster with a lot of letters representing different diseases – we will break down the acronym below:

• FVR: stands for Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis and calicivirus – these two viruses cause upper respiratory tract infections in cats that are easily transmitted from cat to cat. Kittens are more often affected, but unprotected cats can easily be infected. Once infected, many cats become a carrier of these viruses for life.

• C: stands for Chlamydophilia– this is a bacterial infection that causes respiratory disease in cats. It is highly contagious, especially in kittens. It can cause infection in the eyes and the lungs if it is left untreated.

• P: stands for panleukopenia – this is the feline distemper virus. This is a highly infectious disease that can survive in the environment for up to a year! Treatment of this disease is very difficult and the prognosis, once infected, is typically poor.

2. FeLV Vaccine – a vaccination agaisnt Feline Leukemia. This disease is the leading cause of death in cats in North America and can cause very serious health problems in cats. Cats can develop cancerous leukemia and secondary infections throughout the body. Cats can be carriers of this disease for months or years before showing clinical signs.

3. Rabies Vaccine – required by law. We usually start giving a 3 year vaccine to cats after they have had two one year vaccines in a row. We will give each cat a current rabies tag at every annual visit. See our previous blog post for more information on rabies.

4. Nail Trim – a complimentary pedicure for any cat that wants one. This is done much less often than in dogs, but is actually easier to do on a well-mannered cat. 

5. Annual Bloodwork – this is optional, but highly encouraged as your cat begins to age. We have two options available, depending on your cat’s current health status and age:

• Junior Profile: a mini-chemistry panel checking liver and kidney values, blood glucose, thyroid (T4) levels, a complete blood count looking at red blood cells, white blood cells and platelets, and a heartworm antigen test. We recommend this bloodwork for cats once they turn 3-4 years old and annually after that until your pet reaches their “senior years.”

• Senior Profile: a full chemistry panel with a more in depth look at liver and kidney function, electrolytes, blood glucose, thyroid (T4) levels, a complete blood count looking at red blood cells, white blood cells and platelets, a urinalysis and a heartworm antigen test. We recommend this bloodwork for cats once they reach 7-8 years old. This is also a good panel for any cat that has been sick or having urinary issues. For more information on senior pet care, click here.

6. Full Physical Examination - there is nothing more valuable to a veterinarian than a physical examination. Looking at every aspect of your pet every year helps to keep track of your pet as they age. We can make sure any lumps or bumps are not changing significantly and check for early signs disease, especially heart disease and dental disease in aging kitties. There have been several cases where a cat comes in for annual vaccines, and a very significant disease has been found and treated just from a good physical examination. 

Take your kitties to the vet every year - just like Gus!

Hopefully this has been a good break down of our typical feline yearly examination. We would love to see more cats coming in for annual for vaccines in 2013. We see many dogs annually for vaccines, but cats do not come in nearly as often, and it is just as important! Please post a comment if you have any questions. Call us today at 615-377-4959 to schedule your pet’s annual exam!

Breaking Down the Canine Annual Visit

Almost all veterinarians recommend an annual visit for your canine companions. In this blog post, we will break down our standard “yearly exam” for dogs with what vaccines are given and all the other items involved. One thing to keep in mind about vaccines is that they work by stimulating the immune system agaisnt certain antibodies or antigens. If a pet has a disease, such as a urinary tract infection or skin allergies, it is not a good idea to give vaccines at the same time, as that puts too much stress on the pet’s immune system. Let’s start off with a breakdown of our canine yearlys:

Canine annual examination:

1. DHLPP-CV
2. Rabies Vaccine
3. Bordatella vaccine (optional)
4. Fecal flotation
5. Nail Trim
6. Heartworm test +/- annual bloodwork
7. Full Physical Examination

1. DHLPP-CV: a combination booster with a lot of letters representing different diseases – we will break down the acronym below:

• D: stands for distemper virus – a very contagious and often fatal viral disease in dogs. It is usually spread from nasal or ocular discharge in injected dogs. This disease can affect many different organ systems, including the digestive system, respiratory system or the nervous system.

• H: stands for Infectious Canine Hepatitis – this disease is caused by adenovirus (some vaccines can be called DA2PP) and can be transmitted by contact with infected dogs through the urine, feces or saliva. This virus can cause liver failure, respiratory disease or eye damage. 

• L: stands for Leptospirosis – this is a bacterial disease that dogs can get when exposed to the organism in water. It can cause serious liver and kidney disease if contracted.

• P: stands for parvovirus. This is an extremely contagious and serious viral disease that can be fatal. It attacks the gastrointestinal system, especially in young puppies. It is typically spread through fecal exposure and is highly resistant to most cleaning agents.

• P: stands for parainfluenza – this is a respiratory viral disease that can cause coughing, especially when many dogs are found in the same place (boarding, grooming, etc.)

• CV: stands for Coronavirus – a less common viral disease in dogs that affects the intestines.

2. Rabies Vaccine – required by law. We usually start giving a 3 year vaccine to dogs after they have had two one year vaccines in a row. We will give each dog a current rabies tag at every annual visit. See our previous blog post for more information on rabies.

3. Bordetella Vaccine – this oral vaccine is optional for dogs. It prevents Bordetella bronchiseptica, a bacterial infection known to cause “kennel cough”. This vaccine is recommended for dogs that get groomed regularly, attend training sessions with other dogs, are being boarded or go to the dog park often.

4. Fecal Flotation – a sample is evaluated for presence of worm eggs. Most dogs on regular heartworm prevention do not have intestinal worms, but there is increasing resistance with many of these worms. The most commonly found worms in canine feces include whipworms, hookworms and roundworms. Some facilities require a fecal done annually before boarding.

5. Nail Trim – a complimentary pedicure for all dogs seen at their annual exam. Done mostly to save your hardwood furniture and upholstery. We have yet to meet a dog that enjoys a nail trim.

6. Heartworm Test +/- Annual Bloodwork – we require a negative heartworm test annually to renew any heartworm medication prescriptions. This is a blood test, typically sent to an outside lab that also tests for exposure to a few tick borne diseases. We also offer two different types of annual bloodwork that include a heartworm test.

• Junior Profile: a mini-chemistry panel checking liver and kidney values, blood glucose, thyroid (T4) levels, a complete blood count looking at red blood cells, white blood cells and platelets, and of course, a heartworm test. We recommend this bloodwork for dogs once they turn 3-4 years old and annually after that until your pet reaches their “senior years.”

• Senior Profile: a full chemistry panel with a more in depth look at liver and kidney function, electrolytes, blood glucose, thyroid (T4) levels, a complete blood count looking at red blood cells, white blood cells and platelets, a urinalysis and a heartworm test. We recommend this bloodwork for dogs once they reach 7-8 years old. This is also a good panel for any dog that has been sick or having urinary issues. If you would like more information on senior pet care, click here. 

7. Full Physical Examination - there is nothing more valuable to a veterinarian than a physical examination. Looking at every aspect of your pet every year helps to keep track of your pet as they age. We can make sure any lumps or bumps are not changing significantly and check for early signs of arthritis or other disease. There have been many cases where a dog comes in for annual vaccines, and a very significant disease has been found and treated just from a good physical examination. 

Milly stay healthy because she gets her exam and vaccines every year!

Hopefully this has been a good break down of our typical canine yearly examination. Please post a comment if you have any questions. Call us today at 615-377-4959 to schedule your pet’s annual exam! 

Halloween Hazards - Household Toxins

With Halloween around the corner, and everyone stocking up on their chocolate candy for trick-or-treaters, a blog post about common household toxins for pets seems in order. This will not be all inclusive, but hopefully I can cover the major toxic items inside and outside the home.

Let’s start with foods. The most well known is of course, CHOCOLATE. With chocolate, the dark, baking chocolate is the most toxic. Also, white chocolate is in fact not toxic at all to your pup (but please do not give it to your dog). Other common food items that are toxic include avocado, onions and garlic, grapes and raisins, any beverages with caffeine or alcohol, macadamia nuts and any chewing gum containing xylitol.

Another major source of toxins for pets is household plants. This list is very long and new plants are constantly added to it. The ones that immediately pop into my head are LILIES (all kinds – especially in your feline friends), oleander, foxgloves, daffodils, philodendrons and sago palms (a huge problem in Louisiana and Florida). Other plants on the list include: English ivy, poision ivy and poison oak, rhododendron, poinsettias and holly (Christmas!), yews, dumb cane, elephant ears, hibiscus and aloe vera.

Outside you can find other toxins as well. Garden mulch and mushrooms can be toxic to dogs and cats. Also, many fertilizers, herbicides and insecticides, especially organophosphates, are not safe for pets. Please keep your pets away from these products when they must be used. The worst toxin I can think of is ANTI-FREEZE. This always becomes a problem with cooler weather coming. This chemical is very potent and just the smallest drop can cause a severe problem for cats and small dogs. Please be extremely careful with the product. It is naturally sweet tasting, so pets can often be attracted to the smell. Always clean up anti-freeze spills when they occur.

Another major toxin is RAT POISON. This can cause internal bleeding if ingested. These rodenticide and other baits in the home can cause serious problems if your pet happens to get into them. Also, household cleaners, especially bleach, should be kept in a safe place out of your pet’s reach.

The most common toxin exposure we see at CSAH is human medications given to pets inappropriately. We recommend calling us before giving your pet ANY household medication. If you don’t know already, TYLENOL is extremely toxic, especially to cats. Also, please do not give your pet ibuprofen (Motrin) as overdoses are very common. Decongestant medications containing pseudoephedrine can cause hyper-excitability and liver damage. Another common toxin we see is topical flea and tick medication labeled only for dogs being used on cats. If this happens, the first thing you should do is bathe the cat with dawn (or another gentle soap) to get the product off the fur.

Signs of toxin exposure can be very variable. The most common signs include vomiting (GI toxins), lethargy and weakness, or seizures (CNS toxins). You may also see labored or shallow breathing, drooling, stumbling, staggering or tremors. Some toxins cause increased heart rate, hyperactivity, increased thirst and dilated pupils.

If you think your pet has ingested a toxin, please give us or any emergency center a call immediately. If you need to bring your pet into the hospital, always remember to bring the packaging that the toxin came in. This can provide very valuable information when handling toxin exposure cases.

Hopefully this blog post opened your eyes to some of the pet toxins found around your home and in the yard. Please comment if you have any questions about this information.

ASPCA Toxin Hotline: (888) 426-4435

Above, a picture of George, one of our regulars in his Halloween attire. 

- H

Fleas, fleas and more fleas!

This week, I will be covering a topic that has plagued so many of our clients (and staff) this summer. Fleas. Those little pesky bugs that suck your pet's blood, cause intense itching, skin lesions, and worst of all, invade your home. 

The flea most often seen on your dogs and cats is actually the cat flea, Ctenocephalides felis. These fleas lay eggs on the fur of their host (your pet), and the eggs then fall onto bedding or carpet for hatching. Hatching leads to larvae which leads to cocooning pupa which, after several weeks, finally produces an adult flea. Adult fleas feed on their host almost immediately. They consume blood and excrete it in a blackish red pellets onto their host to create "flea dirt." Flea dirt looks a lot like pepper flakes on your pet's skin. These fleas cannot survive for more than a few days in temperatures less than 37 degrees F. To survive the winter, these fleas find a host to keep warm. These hosts can be your pet, if you are not treating topically. 

In some pets, flea allergy dermatitis (FAD) may develop secondary to flea infestations. FAD is a hypersensitivity to flea salvia that may cause dermatitis in dogs and cats. In cats, this typically presents as miliary dermatitis with small crusted spots on the neck, back and face. In dogs, there is intense itching, usually at the tail base but can occur all over the body. Dogs can lose hair and develop lesions in the skin from the intense itching. Occasionally, secondary bacterial or fungal infections may occur on the skin from the self-trauma. 

Fleas can cause more problems than just itchy skin. In young animals, too many fleas can lead to iron deficiency anemia from so much blood loss. Also, fleas are carriers of several different intestinal worms. The most common is the tapeworm. When grooming, your pet may ingest a flea which may then lead to a tapeworm infection as well. 

The goal of flea treatment is three-fold: 1. eliminate fleas on your pet(s), 2. eliminate fleas in your pet's environment and 3. prevent subsequent re-infestation. 

Eliminating fleas on your pet. There are so many products out on the market right now for flea control. Here is what we typically recommend for clients. Remember, please make sure you are purchasing the right product for your pet. Check the weight and species approved on all products before using them. 

1. Topical monthly flea and tick prevention - products such as Parastar Plus, Frontline Plus, K9 Advantix for dogs or EasySpot and Frontline for cats - these products may take up to 24 hours to start killing fleas
2. Oral monthly flea prevention - Comfortis or Trifexis (heartworm prevention as well)
3. Oral immedatiate treatment - CapStar, which kills fleas on the pet for 24 hours

To treat the environment, there are a few different things to do, depending on the degree of infestation. You may start by washing all the bedding your pet contacts and vacuuming the carpets (tip: put a flea collar in the vacuum bag). There are sprays out there to kill fleas in their various stages you can use as well. Usually, however, you will have to get a flea bomb to fully treat your home. There are also treatments that can be used on the yard. Concentrate these on places your pet goes, such as the doghouse, garage or special areas your pet likes to lounge. 

Preventing re-infestation is usually done by using a monthly prevention we mentioned earlier. Unfortunately, fleas can develop resistance to some of these products. If you notice a product stops working for your pet, wait a few weeks after application and try a different one. These products are ideally used year round. If you want to stop using topical products during the winter, just remember to use them a month after the first freeze and then re-start a month before the last freeze.

Hopefully this will help pet owners to deal with the terrible flea season we have seen in Tennessee this year. Remember, you are not alone if you are experiencing a flea infestation. If you have more questions, please let us know or call the office at 615.377.4959. Thanks!

- H

Better a day late, than never - Rabies

Did you see Old Yeller? If not, go watch it stat. I saw it when I was about eight, and I think it changed my life for three reasons. One, it is partially responsible for me becoming a veterinarian. Two, it solidified my love of Labradors. Three, it made me very afraid of Rabies. Why the movie reference? Well, I had grandiose plans of making a blog post in honor of World Rabies Day. However, World Rabies Day is September 28^th, so I missed my deadline by a day. My apologies, but we are still going to do an overview of the worst, most fatal viral disease, rabies.

Rabies is a viral disease (a Rhabdovirus to be exact – thanks Dr. Gyimah!) that is almost always fatal in animals and humans. It is secreted in salvia and typically transmitted from a bite by an infected animal. Rabies affects only mammals, mainly skunks, raccoons, bats foxes and coyotes. In household animals, cats are most commonly affected and have been since 1988. This is partly due to decreased compliance with rabies vaccines in cats (note: vaccinate your cat!). It also affects dogs, cattle, horses and other livestock.

Once an animal is infected with rabies, the virus travels along nerves from the wound site to the brain. It can take weeks or months for the virus to travel to the brain, depending on where the infection occurred. From there, the clinical signs begin. The signs are variable, but include your Hollywood perception of foamy mouth, aggression, staggering, etc. This is known as the furious form of rabies and is often referred to as “mad-dog syndrome.” There can also be fearfulness, seizures, difficulty swallowing (paralytic form), depression, light sensitivity or just acting in an unusual manner. Once clinical signs appear, the disease is nearly always fatal.

Diagnosis of rabies is an unpleasant topic. A definitive diagnosis is usually required if rabies is suspected. A rabies test involves humane euthanasia and decapitation. The head is then sent to a qualified laboratory for immunofluorescense microscopy.

Rabies control is the main mechanism of disease prevention. Annual vaccinations are a MUST for all dogs and cats. These days, many rabies vaccines are good for 3 years, with a new rabies tag being issued at each annual visit. As a bonus, rabies tag numbers can be used to help locate a pet’s home if they get lost. Also important is to limit your pet’s exposure risk. Keep your pet in a contained environment, such as inside or in a fenced yard. Avoid wild animals and never attempt to keep them as pets.

If another pet or a wild animal bites your dog, please give us (or any veterinarian) a call immediately. Even if the pet is current on vaccines, there are many risks associated with puncture wounds from animal bites. An observation period may be needed, depending on the situation. Unfortunately, if your pet is not current on vaccines and is exposed to a rabid animal, the only options are euthanasia or a strict isolation for 6 months. I cannot express enough how important it is to keep your pet current on their rabies vaccines.

How does this affect the pet owners? If an animal ever bites you, wash the wound immediately and see a doctor. If the animal is a pet, get information on the vaccination status and report the incident to the local health department. These cases are evaluated based on risk assessment, which may be too complicated to discuss in a brief blog post.

So, the moral of this story and the classic film Old Yeller? Vaccinate your pets EVERY YEAR! Questions? Let me know!

- H

Thunderstorms!

With the recent storms we have had in Middle Tennessee the last few weeks, I thought I would do a quick post about thunderstorm anxiety in dogs. This is a common fear in dogs (and rarely cats). It is very important to understand and manage your pet’s thunderstorm fear. All too often, pets can get frightened and panic and end up running away or hurting themselves or your home. Dogs can sense the barometric pressure changing before a storm rolls in and can develop anxiety before the storm can be heard.

The first thing to do with all pets, and especially pets prone to panicking and bolting away from their home, is ensure they have proper identification. ID tags on the collar AND a microchip are very important in case your pet gets lost. All too often people report found dogs that have lost their collar and therefore their only identification. With a microchip, most shelters and veterinary clinics have a scanner that can identify the ID number and then get the owner’s contact information associated with that number. This is an invaluable resource, and I strongly believe all dogs, whether inside or out, should be micro-chipped.

Ok, so your pet has proper identification. Now what? First off, provide your dog with a “safe place.” Inside, that is typically a kennel or a bed in a corner. For an outside dog, a doghouse or pen that is covered (to limit their visual stimulation from the lightening) is ideal. When storms are coming, make sure your dog knows where their safe place is and take them there. If possible, stay with your dog and try to distract them with petting, brushing or playing. Dogs can sense your anxiety or nervousness, so make sure you stay calm as well!

If your dog becomes destructive when anxious, then a crate is your best bet. That really limits the trouble your pup can get into while stressed during the storms. If you are not crating your dog, keep all doors closed and draw the curtains on all the windows. Turning on the TV or music can help distract your dog from the thunder. Unfortunately, some dogs may urinate (or defecate) when extremely anxious and nervous. This is a normal response to fear, and your dog should not be punished for this behavior.

If you have followed these guidelines and tried to modify the environment to help your dog, and they still have extreme anxiety during storms, you may need to take additional measures. I hear nothing but good things about “Thunder Shirts” and other similar items. The concept behind these is to put a mild amount of pressure around your dog. This gentle pressure helps to calm the dog during times of anxiety. See their website for more information (I am in no way being paid to promote this product, FYI, I just think it works most of the time). Another option is to see a behaviorist and work on reconditioning. This can be time consuming but can be very beneficial for the dog. Many pet owners have found great success with behavior modification.

A final option is medication to help with thunderstorm anxiety. The most common medication used in dogs is typically diazepam (Valium). This medication can help with your dog’s thunderstorm anxiety and typically has minimal side effects. Medications should only be used as a last resort for your pet. If you think your pet has severe thunderstorm anxiety, please give us a call, and we can discuss an appropriate plan for your pet.

Thanks and Happy Thursday!

- H

Getting Older - Senior Pet Care

In honor of September being Senior Pet Care Month, I have decided to briefly summarize the standard of care for all senior pets. So, what exactly is a senior pet? We consider most animals geriatric (or senior, if you will) at seven years old. This is, however, not an exact number. With some large and giant breed dogs, like a Great Dane for example, six is probably a more appropriate age to start calling your dog senior. However, many cats can live up to twenty years. These cats may not be considered geriatric until they are eight or ten years old. Also of note, the standard saying, “one dog year equals seven human years,” is not exactly accurate. Below you will see a chart of how different sized pets age at different rates.

So, now you know if your pet is senior. What to do next? Once your pet hits that magic age, it is time to go to the vet a bit more often. The AVMA (American Veterinary Medical Association) recommends all geriatric pets have semi-annual veterinary visits. That is, a vet should see all geriatric pets every six months. These exams will include a physical examination to pick up on changes your pet is going through, both physically and mentally. A good physical examination can pick up on many diseases earlier than an owner might notice them.  It is estimated that only 14% of geriatric animals undergo this recommend regular health screening.

And now a word (or two) about bloodwork.

At one visit a year, bloodwork should be run. The standard senior panel we have at CSAH includes a full chemistry panel, a complete blood count (CBC), a thyroid (T4) hormone check, a heartworm/tick panel (4DX test) and a complete urinalysis. This panel gives us (the vets) a good idea how everything is working on the inside. This can pick up on early signs of disease and help make treatment more successful. For example, a dog may have kidney values mildly elevated on screening bloodwork. Fluid therapy when kidney disease is caught early on is much more successful than when started once your pet is feeling ill from advanced kidney disease. This bloodwork also helps establish a baseline of values, so we know what is normal for your pet when they are healthy. That way, if you pet does get ill down the road, we know what was normal for him when he was healthy. I cannot emphasize enough how important bloodwork is for your senior pet.

So, what exactly are the major diseases affecting geriatric pets? That list is quite long, but I can briefly summarize. First off, 50% of all dogs over ten years old typically lose their life to cancer. This is a major part of geriatric care. Some neoplasia, like splenic masses and skin tumors, can be picked up with semi-annual physical examinations. Others become evident upon receiving bloodwork results. Unfortunately, sometimes cancer is not discovered until your pet is very sick. Just like in humans, cancer is a deadly problem affecting many geriatric pets.

Other diseases commonly found in older animals typically include osteoarthritis, especially in your larger breeds of dogs, and endocrine diseases (hypothyroidism, hyperthyroidism, diabetes and Cushing’s disease). Heart failure, liver failure and kidney disease are also geriatric pet diseases typically found at semi-annual veterinary appointments. Cognitive dysfunction is also a problem in geriatric animals, with signs similar to Alzheimer’s disease in humans. This is a very broad summary of geriatric illnesses that you may encounter as your precious pet hits the senior years.

In summary, once your dog or cat reaches the age considered senior, it is time to start making appointments every six months for a physical exam and have bloodwork done once a year. Since September is Senior Pet Care Month, we have our senior panels discounted $10.00 to encourage clients to screen their older pets for many of the diseases we have covered. Please call us today and make an appointment!

- H

PS: Here is my mother’s senior pup – Gerry, 14 years old – and going strong!

CYTAUX

For our first informative post, I am writing about one of my LEAST favorite diseases ever. This nasty tick-borne disease affects cats and causes non-specific signs with a high mortality. This is Cytauxazoonosis.

Cytauxazoonosis is an infection of the organism Cytauzxoon felis in cats. It is transmitted by ticks in the southeastern states. It is found in several feline species as reservoir hosts, most notably in the bobcat. This is where it gets its nickname, “Bobcat Fever.”

Cats infected with Cytauxazoonosis typically become extremely ill, very suddenly. They can become icteric (jaundiced – yellow gums), lethargic, weak and anorexic. They typically have a very high fever. They also may have pale gums, depending on how severe their anemia has become.

Bloodwork on cats with Cytauxazoonosis typically shows an anemia (low red blood cell count) and a variable white blood cell count. The white blood cell count (WBC) can sometimes indicate the stage of the disease. Early on, cats may have an elevated WBC, but as their disease advances, the WBC may drop dramatically. A diagnosis is usually made by examining a blood smear and visualizing the “signet ring” shaped organisms in red blood cells. Cats can also be dehydrated or have elevated liver enzymes, depending on the severity and duration of their disease.

Treatment of Cytauxazoonosis is a little controversial. The older treatment regime has been two injections of Imidocarb (an anti-babesia drug) 14 days apart, along with an antibiotic (typically enrofloxacin or azithromycin). A newer protocol is an anti-malarial drug named Atoquovaone combined with an antibiotic (typically azithromycin). The problem with Atoquavaone is that it is a bit hard to come by and very expensive. There are some reports of 60% survival rate with this newer protocol.

Prognosis is grave and there is typically a poor response to treatment. Most cats die within two weeks of their initial visit to the vet. Unfortunately, this disease attacks red blood cells quickly and cats can have a severe infection before you even know your kitty is sick.

So, this is such a nasty disease that is prevalent in the Middle Tennessee area. How can you protect your feline friends? Using a monthly topical product to repel fleas and TICKS is very important. This is recommended in all cats with access to the outdoors (perhaps even in all cats, period). Topical ectoparasite medication is an easy, economical and effective way to ensure you never lose a cat to such a nasty disease like Cytauxazoonosis.

Flea and tick prevention recommended in cats includes Easy Spot and Frontline Plus. Remember, even indoor cats need protection from fleas and ticks. Mark your calendar and give ectoparasites control to your cats every month.

Please post any questions you have, and I will do my best to answer them!

- H

Welcome!

Welcome to our new blog at Cool Springs Animal Hospital!

In an attempt to promote client education on common canine and feline diseases, we at CSAH have decided to join the 21st century and start blogging. So, on a (hopefully) weekly basis, I plan on posting about either a cat or dog ailment. I will, naturally, be taking requests and will be more than willing to answer questions posted as comments. Perhaps, I may even end up doing a FAQs post for the common enquires we, as vets, get posed. Regardless, thanks for reading and please let me know what you think!

A little about myself is in order before we get underway. I graduated from Ross University School of Veterinary Medicine this past January and started working at CSAH in March of this year. I did kennel and assistant work for Dr. Jones throughout high school and college, and he has been fast friends with my parents for a very long time. I went to Auburn for undergraduate studies (probably why Doc hired me) and am a huge Tigers fan(atic). I have a black lab puppy named Bridget that I got this summer and spend most of my time cleaning up her messes.

That about raps up our first post. Be on the lookout for a new post coming very soon!

-H